Welsh David's South America: 28 and 29 December 2017

28 December

Noon position : 60*18'S 61*05'W Sea temperature - 2.0 C Air temperature - 1.8C

The sea was not too rough today with the ship being in the Convergence Zone but we did have a permanent starboard list so putting on two trousers was hard with all of the movement going on. For those who’s bunk is next to the hull they were told that there was a camping ground sheet under the mattress which they could pull out and shield themselves from the damp hull as there was a lot of condensation around. Even during the night it is not dark now with plenty of light to see when walking about the ship. The outside temperature is 1 degrees C. We are still using more water than the ship is making. Fresh bread is made every day and dry crackers are left out most of the time for those who are under the weather and not eating properly.

The Antarctic Convergence Zone is the odd ocean zone encircling the continent where the warmer water from the northern oceans run into the colder water from the Southern Ocean. The cold water flows under the warmer water bringing up nutrients into the Southern Ocean and the joining of both currents can cause rough seas.

Early morning and the ship was moving easily. It was not particularly cold, then being told it was actually 1 degrees C, and 30 minutes on steering or on lookout was enough at one time, especially for the fingers, gloves or no. Everything put on the cabin floor slides all over the place so when we get up the first job is to untangle the mess of boots and clothes. I’ve figured out how to stop my boots going everywhere and that is to put the laces into an open drawer and the close the drawer trapping the laces and stopping the boots from moving. I put my glasses in the boots for safe keeping as well.

Noon to noon travel today was 128 miles and the skipper said that we had 110 miles to go to our first landing, which everyone is looking forward to happening. Just after noon a fire drill was called, the fire being in the laundry space.

Later we were given a talk about what is expected of us when landing in the Antarctic. This is in accordance with the Code of Conduct for Visitors to Antarctica and South Georgia agreed by the Georgia International Association of Antarctic Tourist Operators. The Antarctic is the largest wilderness on earth and need protection after the desecration done there by others in the past. The rules relate to no littering, no taking plastic bags ashore, no smoking, no eating, no toilets, for a few. Do not pick up feathers, stones, bones, bird shell, artefacts do not go into buildings or damage any building or item: Watch where we step, not in animal pathways, on lichen, moss or grass. Keep away from animals by defined distances, walk and talk slowly near them and give them precedence when walking around. A suggestion was also to wear as little as possible about the ears so as to be able to listen to the animal sounds which could be indicative of anger. Watch out for diving birds. Do not have snow ball fights. Very specifically beware of animals being around when taking photos and not watching what is going on around you. Try to photograph or record any tag number that you see and advise the ships staff of any. No alcohol is to be drunk two hours before going ashore. Before leaving the ship check your name is ticked off on a list indicating those going ashore and when returning and wear a lifebelt. Step into disinfectant before leaving and returning to the ship and and also disinfect any tripods and walking sticks.

Access to the Antarctic region can only allowed with the permission of the Dutch Government in this case as the ship is registered in Holland.

We had a talk from the marine biologist who will be leaving the ship tomorrow for a six weeks stay at Maxwell Bay, King George Island while he works as a diver checking the algae and molluscs with a view to keeping an eye on the effect on them due to climate change. The research is to go on for five years, and if productive, for a further ten years.

While keeping watch this evening we were told to watch out for whales and icebergs as we are in the area where they can be expected to be seen. Just noticed that my Santiago/Easter Island suntan has nearly disappeared!

29 December

Noon position : 62*17'S 58*44'W Sea temperature - 2.0 C Air temperature - 0.1C

There were calm seas this morning while we sailed into Maxwell Bay at King George Island, sighting our first large iceberg on the way. To increase the excitement of landing for the first time today we had bacon and egg for breakfast! Maxwell Bay is the home to a number of research stations, Chilean, Argentinian, Russian and Chinese to name a few. There was even a Russian Orthodox Church there and the only airstrip in this area, but not the only one in Antarctica.